
Uttar Pradesh
The dead arrive by bamboo stretcher, shoulder-borne through lanes barely wider than a water buffalo. They pass chai stalls and cricket games, stray dogs and selling women, until they reach the burning ghats where the fires have been going for what Hindus will tell you is three thousand years without interruption. This is the one detail that makes Varanasi irreducible, the thing no other city on earth can claim. Cremation as continuous public ceremony. Death not hidden but processed out in the...






